Cotton Woven Fabric Guide

Woven cotton: no stretch, and that is the point

In a woven cloth two sets of yarn cross each other at right angles. Nothing loops, so nothing stretches — which is why a woven shirt keeps its collar crisp and a woven dress holds a pleat. The trade is that it frays at a cut edge and gives you no forgiveness in the fit, so sizing has to be right.

Weight is the decision that matters most here, and it is measured in grams per square metre. Below about 100 gsm you are in shirting and scarf territory, light enough to see through. Around 120 gsm is quilting and dressmaking cotton. Past 200 gsm the cloth starts to stand up on its own.

Reading the names

Voile and lawn are the fine, light ones — voile is the airier of the two, lawn slightly denser with a smoother, almost silky face. Both are semi-sheer; hold one up and you will see light through it.

Poplin is the workhorse. A tight plain weave, flat and even, which is why printed detail comes out crisp on it. Ours run 100 to 120 gsm, and there is a stretch poplin with a little elastane if you want a fitted shirt that still moves.

Sateen is woven so more of the yarn floats on the surface. That gives it a low sheen and a smoother hand, and it is the best of the cottons for photographic or finely detailed artwork because the face is so even.

Double gauze is two fine layers held together with tiny tack points. It crinkles when washed, it breathes, and it is soft in a way a single layer cannot be — which is why it ends up in babywear and summer dresses. The four-layer version is heavier and absorbent enough for towels and blankets.

Linen is not cotton at all, but it lives here because it behaves like a woven: no stretch, a visible slub in the surface, and it creases honestly. It softens with every wash.

How we print them

All of these take reactive dye, the same process as our cotton knits: the colour bonds into the fibre, survives washing, and leaves the cloth feeling like cloth rather than like a printed sheet. Production runs two to three weeks because of the steaming and washing that follow the print.

Before you order

• Minimum 5 m per design.
• Finish your edges. Woven cotton frays. Overlock or stay-stitch 1–2 cm in from the cut edge before you pre-wash.
• Check the width on the quality page before scaling a repeat — most run 150 cm, the twills and some canvases 160.
• Semi-sheer means semi-sheer. Voile and lawn will need lining for anything fitted.